
If you ask a handful of Angelenos what the best restaurant is, one of the most common answers is
Sona on La Cienega. Thus for my annual holiday dinner with Mom last weekend, I was delighted to get a same day reservation. That was probably not a good sign, but I attributed it to the hideous economy or just sheer good fortune. Whatever the case, I am having a classic case of planned expectations falling apart and then feeling crushed.
Anyhow, I endeavor on. I'll try to make this brief since I don't want to linger on the negative. But a few things that I can't get past -- when the server describes each plate on the 6-course 'surprise' tasting menu, he needs to speak clearly and loudly. After most descriptions, my Mom pointed at her dish and asked me, "what is this?" and I could only throw out a few words.. .oyster on something? If the servers didn't scurry away so quickly, I would have asked them to repeat it, but those folks moved fast!
Speaking of 'oyster on something' -- does anyone think a raw oyster on a pile of beans sounds good? The oyster should have been fresh and light, but then it was paired with earthy and smokey beans in a thick, gluttonous sauce (dry heaving at the memory). The combo did not work.
While getting through that course, my untypically squeamish Mom said to me, "did you eat the oyster?" I told her, "yes, I ate it first. I knew I'd hate it so I wanted it to be over with as fast as possible." Isn't it sad to have to strategize your bites like that?
For courses 3 and 4, I wished for something more memorable. It was cooked well, but I have come to the conclusion that savvy ingredients don't make a culinary masterpiece. The third option was quail, but a homey roast chicken dish would have easily delighted me. The fourth course offered veal cheek, and yet I longed for a pedestrian braised beef in a tasty sauce. You can't fool me with an average dish by using with quail and veal cheek!
Finally two courses of desserts. Maybe this is my only child past creeping out, but they served my Mom and I different dessert plates and the little morsels given were just one bite, so sharing was an impossibility. Thus for two courses, I was torn between jealousy of my Mom's plate and guilt for getting the good one. I'm happy-go-lucky, therefore, the internal struggle was unappreciated!
I will say that our table's head waiter was nice and helpful when I could flag him, the bread was scrumptiously warm, and the wine sublime. And the shared experience with my Mom for our Christmas Dinner '08 is treasured. Yet next time, Melisse or Capo or Providence or Il Sole or Lawry's or Jar or. . .you get the drift.